Paper Mache Skeleton V2.0 – Part 2

Demolding The RibcageIf you have a natural talent for origami, or if you’ve ever solved a Rubik’s Cube, then de-molding a paper mache skeleton will be a slam dunk.

De-molding this guy was actually not that difficult. Reassembling the flayed corpse, however, was more of a challenge. I don’t think I ever re-combobulated a Rubik’s Cube without peeling the stickers.

Inside Out SkeletonFront & Back

It looked less like an exploded Giger monster after the ribcage bits were tacked back together.

Looks like a roast turkeyDe-molded Spine

Some Assembly RequiredArm Bones


Paper Mache Skeleton V2.0 – Part 1

How a scarecrow gets an attitude

AttitudeFrom the undead letter office …

Our friend, Mr. Clamfigs, writes:

“I was hoping you could settle a debate,( and I hope I win).

We are looking at bruno’s head and the cauldron you used for it, and was wondering how big is it?

I purchased a 16″ black cauldron for our head but my wife said it (my head ) looks way too big. please settle this for us. ( and I hope I win).”

Dear Mr & Mrs Clamfigs,

Contrary to popular belief, good sense, and a very intimidating engineering manual I glanced over once at a college bookstore, you almost can’t have a too-big scarecrow head. Scarecrows are unanimous in this. Scarecrows are also notoriously cocky, owing to their big heads.

You may be surprised to learn that Bruno, of all the gourdish ghoulies propagated by our little horror factory, has the smallest head. Grumble’s is larger, but his little brother, Tater, holds the record for largest head among our scarecrow critters.

Bruno’s head does indeed measure approximately 16″ from ear to ear. However, I removed about three inches of “lip” around the cauldron opening to give it a more oblong, pumpkiny shape, so it’s perfectly understandable that your cauldron would appear, to certain discerning eyes, too large.

So, you are both correct, which is a good thing since a wife or husband that wins an argument rarely enjoys the eventual comeuppance concocted by the loser. Especially when there is packing tape and grape jelly involved.

Or a harmonica.


Note: I just realized that I might have altogether misinterpreted your note, so to cover my bases: If your wife thinks your head looks too big, then I wouldn’t argue with her. Get a haircut, or start wearing shoulder pads. It’s just easier that way.

Bugs

Outside The Chocolate Bar

Roach races

Bat Signal

Pop quiz

Ride 'The Vortex'Don't ride 'The Vortex'

Paper Mache Skeleton V2.0 – Part 1

Skin & BonesThis changes everything.

We’re mapping uncharted waters on a challenging new project that has taught your old pal Spook that to clear the bar, when raised high enough, sometimes requires a new pair of sneakers. In other words, never stop learning. Failure hurts, spectacular failure might need stitches.

This mysterious project requires a corpse that is, among other things, altogether believable. Building to this level of realism meant that I had to evaluate, and ultimately toss out, some old methods. Rewrite the book, so to speak. Chapter One begins, “How to build a realistic paper mache skeleton”.

Now, I’d heard cat’s-paw rumors across the internets for years about folks who have made paper mache replicas of a bucky skeleton, but I never seriously considered attempting it myself. What a nightmare, I thought. There are too many details, I thought. I was wrong.

Silver bones ... silver bonesWe needed a complete torso and one arm, but legs weren’t necessary, so I swiped Mrs. Spookyblue’s aluminum foil out of the pantry and got to work.

The trick to covering a skeleton in aluminum foil is to hit one area at a time and to work in layers until you can smooth the metal with a fair amount of force without poking through. Start with the front and wrap the foil as far back as you can reach without lifting the skeleton off the table.

Paper mache ribcagePaper mache skeletonApply torn paper strips, continuously smoothing as you work, and allow the first layer to dry before adding a second layer. When the second layer is dry, turn the skeleton over and repeat.

Paper mache ribsPaper mache spinal columnWhen foiling the back, overlap the dry paper mache with new foil by two or three inches. Add paper strips, but leave a small margin around the edges of the foil so that the new paper doesn’t come into contact with what you’ve already done.

YuckLayered paper mache over bonesAfter the paper is completely dry, carefully peel off the back and set it aside. It should remove fairly easily. The front is another story.

The rib cage is one big undercut, which means you’ll have to slice it up with a razor blade to de-mold it. I cut mine right down the middle, across the sternum, and along the spine. I also had to cut a few odd bits around the shoulders, but it eventually pulled away. Remove as much of the foil as you can, then duck tape the pieces back together. Add another paper layer to hide the seams, and you end up with a very detailed, anatomically correct skeleton. No more rolling newspaper bones.

Okay, technically it’s not a skeleton if there is skin between the bones, but if you got this far, then you can figure that part out on your own. Our ghoul needed some putrid, disgusting skin on his bones. Besides, it’s a good excuse to break out your Dremel.

Paper Mache Skeleton V2.0 – Part 2


Related material that covers a zillion or so glossed-over details:
Groundbreaker Corpses
Witches
Crow – Ver. 1.0 skeleton – On a stick
And so on